After going on my own Northland journey, I present to you the ultimate (in my opinion) one week roadtrip itinerary for Northland, New Zealand. Often left out due to its distance from the rest of the north island, Northland can feel like an undiscovered gem.
Some destinations, like Cape Reinga and Bay of Islands, are on everybody’s list. But what about the rest of Northland? Don’t miss out on the beauty and wonder that Northland has to offer. Take a roadtrip around New Zealand’s northernmost region with my ultimate one week itinerary!
The accommodation options given here are based on my personal experience and recommendations, you’re welcome to explore other options on HostelWorld and Booking.com. If you have a self-contained vehicle, you can really expand where you stay on this roadtrip itinerary around Northland.
Before we get into it, quick disclaimer: these drive times don’t account for road works, getting stuck behind a slow moving vehicle, extra time for unpaved windy roads if certain detours or stops are taken. As always in New Zealand, expect every drive to take a little more time than estimated by Google. Especially in Northland, which feels like the capital of unpaved roads and potholes. Drive safe out there!
Day 1: Waipoua
Heading north from Auckland, take the scenic route through the Twin Coast Discovery Highway (a recurring feature on this roadtrip) to Opononi. Along the way, explore the kauri forests with these stunning forest walks.
Trounson Kauri Park is a 30-45 minute loop walk (depending on how long you spend taking photos and taking in the scenery). Most of the track is raised boardwalk to protect the sensitive kauri root systems – beware these can be quite slippery when wet! The track feels so remote and like you’re immersed in the forest. It’s well-covered so it’s a good all weather walk.
A little further along is Waipoua Forest. There are typically a few longer tracks here, but most of them are closed to protect the kauri trees from kauri dieback disease. But don’t fret, you still have options.
Te Matua Ngahere is a 50 minute return walk through the forest. The walk is easy and gentle, winding you through the forest and ending at Te Matua Ngahere, the father of the forest. This tree is the second largest living kauri tree in New Zealand and is an impressive end to the walk.
About one kilometer down the road, you can take a 5 minute walk to see Tane Mahuta, lord of the forest and one of the oldest known kauri trees in New Zealand. If you’re lucky, one of the guardians of the forest will be there to tell you a bit about the cultural and environmental significance of the kauri trees.
Just outside of Waipoua forest is Opononi, where you’ll find your accommodation for the night. Wisteria Way is a small accommodation and store abundant with flowers and cheer. They offer both private and shared cottages for a cozy night on your first night of this roadtrip itinerary touring Northland.
Approximate drive time from Auckland: 3.5 hours
Where to Stay: Wisteria Way in Opononi
Day 2: Ahipara
This Northland roadtrip itinerary continues a short-drive from Opononi for your first stop of the day: Waiotemarama Waterfall Walk. You need to drive a few kilometers of unpaved road to get to the trailhead, which is tucked away right after a bridge crossing. Keep a keen eye out or have your GPS on hand because I definitely missed that turn off the first time and came out all the way on the other end of the highway!
Come back down the way you came to the 12 highway and continue north to your next destination: Signal Station. This walk takes about 30 minutes round trip along a ridge with stunning sea views on either side. You can see the calm waters of the bay to your right and the rough waters of Tasman Sea to your left. Across the waterway, you’ll see brilliant sand dunes. The parking lot has an informational guide that highlights many shipwrecks in the area and the Maori significance and heritage.
You can also add a walk down to Martins Bay, also 30 minutes, which will take you down to the beach. Because you’ll be going from the ridge to the sea, this will be a steeper walk and will probably have you huffing on the return.
From Bays to Boulders
If you’re fortunate enough to be passing through at low tide, take a quick detour to see the Koutu Boulders. Similar to the Moeraki Boulders in the South Island, the Koutu Boulders are naturally occuring spherical rocks that sit along the beach and in the water. There’s not as many boulders here as in Moeraki, but they’re tucked in a quiet neighborhood along the waterfront.
If you’ve got a lot of time on your hands and are okay spending a little money, your next stop is Wairere Boulders. You must take a long, windy, unpaved road to get there, so brace yourself. There are several hours of tramps and activities here for a small fee.
If you’re not interested in a long, windy, unpaved road or adding Wairere Boulders to your Northland roadtrip itinerary, you can save some time with the ferry! Take the Hokianga Vehicle Ferry from Rawene to cut down your travel time and avoid more unpaved roads.
Arrive in Ahipara and get settled in! Lay out in the sun and take a sunset walk along the beach.
Approximate drive time: 2.5 hours
Where to Stay: Endless Summer Lodge in Ahipara
Day 3: Cape Reinga
Perhaps the most exciting day of this Northland roadtrip itinerary!
Leave Ahipara and head north. 90 Mile Beach begins just after Ahipara and stretches for (you probably didn’t guess it) 60 miles north. Honestly, the onramp onto the beach at Ahipara is probably one of the least risky ways you could drive yourself onto the beach. There are numerous access points onto the beach by car from end to beginning.
However…
Please do not make my mistake and need to get towed out by a kind local. Unless you have the ultimate 4 wheel drive, off-roading vehicle, watch where the locals drive onto the beach and follow their path.
Also keep an eye on the tides! When high tide hits, some of the driveable areas of the beach become very narrow and could cut you off from your access point.
In my opinion, there’s no best or worst place to check out 90 Mile Beach. For convenience, you can choose the access point 4km from Ahipara (follow the signs as you head out of town). Or drive farther north and pick where you want to go.
Prepare to (Sand) Board
Just north of 90 Mile Beach are the Giant Sand Dunes. Follow the signs and make sure to stop along the way to rent a sandboard. There’s parking at the edge of the dunes and then you get the joy of walking yourself and your board up your favorite looking dune before riding right back down.
I recommend following the river a ways into the dunes instead of picking a spot right by the parking lot. Your feet will get wet, but you’ll be covered in sand soon enough so it’s a minor concern!
The Lighthouse at the Northernmost Point
After tiring yourself out, keep heading north until you hit your next destination: Reinga lighthouse. This is the northernmost point of New Zealand and the meeting point for two different bodies of water. Take the 1-2 hour return walk to the lighthouse and watch the tumultuous waves where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet.
Stores are very limited to non-existent starting about an hour or more from the cape, so make sure you’ve stocked up on essentials on the way.
From Cape Reinga, go east to your campsite for the night. Kapowairua (Spirit Bay) Campground has been highly recommended by kiwis, though I unfortunately haven’t been able to stay there myself. Enjoy your night in the sheltered bay and prepare to head back south the next day.
Approximate drive time: 3 hours
Where to Stay: Kapowairua (Spirit Bay) Campground, operated by Department of Conservation (DOC)
Day 4: Bay of Islands
On your way down, stop at Karikari peninsula to enjoy some beautiful beaches. If you have a 4wd vehicle, take the long gravel road to Puheke Beach and Mt Puheke Lookout. If you don’t have a good off-roading vehicle or just want to save some time, follow the paved road to Tokerau Beach instead. A common theme on this itinerary, and in Northland in general, is to adjust according to your car’s capabilties.
Your next stop will be in Whangaroa for a short but steep walk up to St Paul’s Rock. The views from the top are absolutely stunning – but the wind is equally strong, so brace yourself! The final push involves some scrambling up rocks, but there’s chains to help keep you secure.
Next stop is Kerikeri to see the Rainbow Falls with several easily accessible viewpoints. I recommend going through the kauri protection gates and do the first 5 minutes of the longer trail there to get to the viewpoint at the base of the falls. While in Kerikeri, check out the Stone Store for local crafts and serene river views.
Twenty minutes further and you’ve arrived at Paihia, your home for the next two days!
Approximate drive time: 4 hours
Where to Stay: Haka Lodge (Booking.com) or Haka Lodge (HostelWorld) in Paihia
Day 5: Bay of Islands
Paihia is the gateway to the Bay of Islands and can connect you to whichever way you want to enjoy them best. With a whole day in Paihia (or more, if you have extra flexibility with your itinerary in Northland), you have a few options to choose from.
You can keep it easy and take advantage of Paihia’s beautiful beaches. Paihia Beach has two look out points on either end and a nice long stretch of beach in the middle. Sand can be hard to come by during high tide, but there’s more options. If you follow the road north from Paihia, either over the outcrop or across the tidepools, you’ll discover an even longer and sandier beach on the other side. Not as close to the eateries and buzz of Paihia, but a fantastic place to escape more of the crowds and enjoy a day in the sand and surf.
Going Beyond Paihia
To really take in the islands, book a boat tour to get farther out into the bay. Some cruises just take you on a tour, while others include snorkeling and swimming. You can also book helicopter tours or paraglide high above the water. This is the tour I went on and I can’t recommend it enough!
Russell, previously the wild west of New Zealand, sits just opposite Paihia and is accessible with a short 15-minute ferry across the water. If you’re traveling in peak season, make sure to line up early for your ferry or you’ll end up waiting for the next one. Russell is a cute, historic town with plenty of yummy restaurants with seaside views. You can enjoy Russell Beach on either side of the wharf, cross the peninsula to Oneroa Bay Beach (Long Beach), or climb a hill to reach Tapeka Beach and Tapeka View Point.
You can also cross the bridge to see the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. There is a (in my opinion) pretty steep price for this attraction, but there is a lot to see, learn, and interact with here.
Day 6: Whangarei
Leaving Paihia, your tour around Northland is soon coming to an end. Instead of heading straight down to Whangarei, follow the signs for the tourist drive to Matapouri and Tutukaka Coast. The roads are classic New Zealand windy, but the lush forest and beaches are worth it. Between Matapouri and Tutukaka, there are plenty of beaches, bays, and outlooks to stop at and marvel at the beauty of New Zealand.
Entering Whangarei from Tutukaka also means you’ll pass directly by Whangarei Falls on your way into town. Take this 30 minute walk from the top of the falls, down to the base, and back up again for a 360 waterfall experience. Due to the strong currents, you can’t swim here. However, with some good shoes and balance, you can make your way around the left side of the pool and get behind the falls. Just make sure the falls aren’t too strong and the weather is in your favor first.
In Whangarei, walk along the river and explore the iconic Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Maori Art Gallery. You can also explore A.H. Reed park to see some more waterfalls and kauri trees. You can also do a full loop between Whangarei Falls and A.H. Reed park if you fancy a longer tramp.
Approximate drive time: 2 hours
Where to Stay: I’ll be honest, this is the one place I didn’t stay in bookable accommodation. I was in Whangarei for some house sitting so I can’t recommend any places first hand (yet). HostelWorld and Booking.com both have great accommodations for you. There are also some freedom camping options in Whangarei Heads.
Day 7: Whangarei Heads
Why take it easy on your last day? Or first day, if you do this Northland roadtrip itinerary in reverse.
Whangarei Heads is a stunning peninsula marked with steep, dramatic ridges and peaks and beautiful bays. There are plenty of tramps and beaches to have a little something for everyone.
Probably the best known track is Bream Head. A 3-4 hour return trek up to a rocky peak and back down again. Starting at Ocean Bay, you can go there and back, or continue on the full Te Whara track and end at Urquhart Bay (5-6 hours one way). Busby Head, or Smugglers Track, is a loop track (1.5-2 hours) that provides some stunning views over the bay and the ridge on the other side. It also passes Smugglers Bay which you can also go straight to from the same parking lot in about 15 minutes and enjoy the beach.
If you want an overnight, you can take the Peach Cove track either from the Peach Cove parking lot or start from Ocean Beach to go over Bream Head and down the other side to stay at a hut near the water. You do have to make the trek back up and down the next day, so prepare accordingly.
A little closer to Whangarei is Mount Manaia, another steep tramp (1-2 hours) for 360 views. This track has a lot of steps, but is also mostly well covered to protect from the sun.
Beyond these, there are even more tramps, tracks, and beaches in every corner of Whangarei Heads. You have your choice of options to fit your time restraints and fitness levels.
Some Alternatives
Not everyone’s perfect trip looks the same, so here are some alterations I’d recommend for your Northland roadtrip itinerary.
If you want to save some driving time, you can cut Karikari Peninsula out of day 4. Especially if you don’t have a 4wd vehicle, the payoff of taking the detour to the peninsula may not feel as worth it as spending time in your other destinations.
Not a big fan of long hikes? Replace the day at Whangarei heads with a night on Karikari Peninsula. This justifies the detour more and lets you make the most out of the sunset and sunrise on Karikari. Another option would be to camp at Matauri Bay Holiday Park, which is what I did.
Hate camping or don’t have the equipment for it? Instead of camping at Kapowairua, make the journey up to Cape Reinga a day trip from Ahipara or Kaitaia. Adding an extra night in Ahipara or swapping Kapowairua for Kaitaia means more driving on the day, but more accommodation options and an easier drive the next day.
Really short on time? Base yourself in Paihia for at least two days and take a day tour to Cape Reinga. You’ll hit the major highlights of Cape Reinga, sandboarding, and 90 mile beach without having to do any of the driving yourself. Then you still have one day to see Russell, take a boat out and explore, or lie out on the beach and relax.
So is Northland on your roadtrip itinerary next time you visit New Zealand? What are you most excited to see? Don’t forget to check out the rest of what New Zealand has to offer.
