Edinburgh is Scotland’s majestic capital built on lava rock and bordered by the sea. Not to reveal my bias too early, but Edinburgh is one of my favorite cities in the world. It represents the best intersection of old, new, industry, and nature and thrives in its respect for history while pushing toward progress. Here is my ultimate guide to Edinburgh for new and returning travelers alike!
In addition to the information provided here, check out my Scotland Travel Guide to discover even more about the culture, travel recommendations, and what to expect.
Fast Facts
- As Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh has a very international population and many university students.
- Arthur’s Seat is actually an ancient volcano which is why most of Edinburgh is built on lava rock (particularly visible under Edinburgh castle). Then it was covered in glaciers during the ice age which is why the city is so hilly today.
Food and Restaurants
Pub culture is very much alive in Edinburgh. It’s very common to end your day at the local pub, have a pint and maybe some bar food, and spend some time with your friends chatting or watching a game. And take care to see if a big game is on because then you certainly won’t be the only ones out!
Edinburgh has quite the variety of quality restaurants and take-aways, it’s really hard to go wrong. On my last visit, I also noticed that the number of restaurants with vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options sky-rocketed! Even vegans can now enjoy Scottish haggis without guilt.
My Scotland Travel Guide dives into more detail about restaurant etiquette, tipping, and expectations in Scotland. Be sure to check that out next!
Recommendations
These are all restaurants or eateries I’ve been to (for many places, more than once) that I’d recommend to anyone to go. These are by no means the only good food in Edinburgh – so please don’t limit yourself to this list! – but a good place to start for those starting at square one and want an idea of what’s out there.
The PieMaker: My go-to for a quick bite in Old Town. They have a wide variety of hand pies, rolls, and hot dogs, including vegan options, at really affordable prices. You can either take a seat at one of their seats inside (though space is limited) or grab your goods to go.
Mary’s Milk Bar: Ice cream and all sorts of ice-cream-affiliated delights in Grassmarket. Sat right under the castle, you can enjoy your treats while staring up in wonder at Edinburgh’s most iconic site. Limited hours during the winter, so make sure to look ahead so you’re not met with disappointment.
For our potato minded travelers…
Makars Mash Bar: They have two locations in Old Town that, to my knowledge, serve the same menu. Here you can find a true local menu filled with different mash varieties and an awe-inspiring selection of sausages. This restaurant is a taste of Scotland right on the steps of the Royal Mile.
The Baked Potato Shop: Pretty self-explanatory, what it says on the tin. A nice stop for a classic stomach-filling meal. They’re also the first place I’ve seen vegan haggis (note that their only haggis is vegan). You can do no wrong after getting a baked potato with beans and cheese from this wee shop off the Royal Mile.
The City Cafe: This may seem like a weird choice given that it’s themed as an American 50’s diner, but the food still screams Scotland amidst those diner classics. This is my go-to stop when I’m craving a full Scottish breakfast. They have the option of getting a full or half size breakfast, plus vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free versions of this Scottish staple.
Transportation
When I stay in Edinburgh, I mainly get around town by walking. In my opinion, Edinburgh is a very walkable city even with its number of hills and valleys. Edinburgh sidewalks tend to be paved so there aren’t as many cobblestone streets to stumble across (but there are some! Especially in old town).
If you’re traveling farther (to the coast for example) or just looking to give your legs a break, Edinburgh has a great bus system you can take advantage of. The Lothian Buses now accept cards on board so you no longer have to suffer through trying to have exact change! There’s a Lothian bus information center right next to Waverly Station (on the side closest to the Royal Mile). Pop in there to purchase tickets or find route information.
There isn’t currently a metro or subway system so all transportation is above ground.
If you’re taking a day trip out of Edinburgh, the main coach station is right off St Andrews Square. Some buses will also stop along Princes Street or around Edinburgh, so check the routes for the most convenient stop for you. Tickets for City Link buses can be purchased with cash or card on the bus. The two main train stations are Waverley Station and Haymarket Station. Trains coming in and out of Edinburgh tend to stop at both, so check which is closest to you.
Where to Stay
Edinburgh has a lot of different neighborhoods that have their own feel and offer different things for guests. The two most central and well-known areas are Old Town and New Town.
Old Town
Old Town runs along the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle to Holyroodhouse and the surrounding area. Edinburgh was originally surrounded by Flodden Wall and included only a small portion of the Royal Mile – the section now known as Lawnmarket – and the castle. Canongate, the lower end of the Royal Mile until Holyroodhouse, was technically separate from Edinburgh because it existed outside of the city wall. You can still see part of Flodden Wall in Greyfriars Kirkyard.
Nowadays, Old Town consists of Lawnmarket, Canongate, and GrassMarket. This is where most of the tourist action is in Edinburgh and you would be remiss to end your time in Edinburgh without visiting. It is, however, one giant lava rock hill. So prepare your legs for a workout.
I’ve stayed in two hostels in Old Town and would recommend both to any future travelers.
Castle Rock Hostel sits just under Edinburgh Castle and right above Grassmarket. The rooms each have a different Scottish theme which makes the stay more entertaining. The location cannot be beat, though it does require going up or down every time you leave to explore part of the city.
St Christopher’s Edinburgh Original is situated on Market Street, a short walk on Cockburn Street from the Royal Mile. The location is perfect for hopping between Old and New Town and a quick walk from Waverly Station.
New Town
New Town was the bourgeois solution to the immense overcrowding and unsafe conditions that had developed within Edinburgh’s Old Town. Across from Princes Garden – what was originally a loch which was later filled in due to its role as city sewer for so many years – New Town is where all the more well off Scots moved to. Especially when compared to the more medieval look of Old Town, that wealth shows. The area was meticulously laid out and designed by Scottish architect James Craig in the early 1800s. Today, Princes Street and George Street are Edinburgh’s high streets, with plenty of shopping and eateries for the masses. The pedestrian road Rose Street is tucked between the two and is my preferred place to stop for pubs in the area.
Old Town and New Town are some of the loudest areas I’ve stayed in terms of night out shenanigans. Especially on weekends. If that’s not the environment you’re looking for, you should stay a little farther away from the center and travel in during the day.
Dean Village
One of the more photogenic areas, Dean Village appears in everyone’s stories after visiting Edinburgh. I highly recommend taking a walk through the Leith Walkway in the area for a nice river walk. There aren’t many options for accommodation in this area and I honestly wouldn’t set your sights on staying here. While it’s beautiful, that’s all it really provides you as a visitor (also, leaving the area would always be uphill).
Stockbridge
A neighborhood I’ve only recently discovered on my last visit is Stockbridge. Set on the other side of Dean’s Village from the Castle, Stockbridge is home to a younger crowd in Edinburgh. This means there are plenty of food and shopping options in the area. It’s a pretty lively place to be while still offering a more residential vibe. It’s about a 20 minute walk to Princes Street (mostly up a hill, again). To me, that’s not a deal breaker if you want a more local experience and separation from the center’s activity.
West End
The last area I’m familiar with enough to talk about is the West End. Haymarket, the second biggest train station in Edinburgh, is located here. So it’s a convenient place to be if you need a good jumping off point. There’s a lot of pubs and restaurants in this area as it is pretty residential.
Points of Interest
In addition to these must-see destinations, check out my Guide to Edinburgh’s Free Museums for more free, fun, and local recommendations. For my history and ghost fans, take a look at my Guide to Edinburgh’s Cemeteries as well!
Edinburgh Castle
A can’t miss – literally – in Edinburgh. Edinburgh Castle sits at the top of the Royal Mile and overlooks all of Edinburgh and beyond. On a clear day, you can see over the River Forth and spy the Kingdom of Fife on the other side. You can hear (and see) the One O’Clock Gun go off from the castle courtyard every day to help the city keep time.
Edinburgh Castle is decently large by castle standards, though it was mostly used as military fortification. That means it’s set up as several buildings connected through courtyards rather than one large castle. Several military-focused museums are also set in the castle (all part of the castle admission) to highlight different time periods and uses of the castle during its history.
Depending on how long you’re spending in Scotland and how many Historic Scotland sites you plan to visit, it may be beneficial to purchase a Historic Scotland pass that gets you into all Historic Scotland sites by only paying the one time fee. You can do a little calculation on your own with where you plan to visit versus the cost of the pass, but I find it tends to be worth it if you’re planning on visiting several sites, especially the more expensive ones in big cities like Edinburgh.
Scotch Whisky Experience
Look, whisky is not for everyone. Scottish whisky especially is…very peaty, which is not to everyone’s tastes. But when you’re in Scotland, do as the locals do. Or at least, learn a bit more about it.
There are whisky and gin distilleries all across Scotland and for good reason. In Edinburgh, there are plenty of opportunities to explore local distilleries and learn a bit more about the culture and history of these iconic spirits. One iconic spot to check out in Edinburgh is the Scotch Whisky Experience, located just steps away from Edinburgh Castle. Get a nice tour of the distillery, a bit of a history lesson, and sample whisky all without having to leave Old Town.
Real Mary King’s Close
If you’re unfamiliar with the term, a close is a Scottish term for an alleyway (not to be confused with a wynd which is a narrow walkway between houses). As Edinburgh began to expand, the Scots built higher and closer to fit as many people as possible into the city walls. This created a lot of closes between buildings that acted as alleyways, markets, and (unfortunately) sewers for the locals. Walking down the Royal Mile today, you’ll notice signs above the closes still in public use today. For example, the Old Fishmarket Close (guess what was sold here back in the day), the Advocate’s Close (with quite a mean set of stairs), and, perhaps most famous, Mary King’s Close.
Sitting under what is now the Edinburgh City Chambers, the Real Mary King’s Close is preserved as a remnant of Edinburgh’s history. While in Edinburgh, you can join a tour through the close to learn more about Edinburgh’s history, the daily lives of locals, and explore the houses and living spaces from generations ago.
Prepare for the ultimate immersion
Your tour guide takes on the persona of a real historical figure who was known to have lived on the Royal Mile during the close’s public use. Depending on who you get, you’ll learn a little something different about the people and activities that called this close home. The namesake, Mary King, lived on this close and lived a fiercely independent life for a woman in the 1600s. Widowed with four children, Mary was left a title naming her a Burgess. She also received a seat on the city council which granted her voting rights – 300 years before women were granted the right to vote. She bought two properties on the close – her house and her stall to sell clothes and cloth as a merchant.
If you’re a fan of a more interactive taste of history, this tour may be for you. Walking through the rooms and close gives a clearer perspective of the lived realities of the past and really makes you appreciate how much space we take for granted today. The close is underground so anyone who is not a fan of going somewhere you can’t see the sun, maybe take a pass on this one.
Because it’s under a government building, you can’t take any photos or videos while you’re on the tour. If you want to pay, they do take photos of you in the close you can purchase after the tour.
Arthur’s Seat
Give yourself a solid half day to climb one of the iconic features of the Edinburgh skyline. There are several paths you can take either up to the top of Arthur’s Seat or around the edge of the Salisbury Crags, so you can find a path that works best for your capabilities and time. If you want the full experience, you can make the full circle over the crags then up Arthur’s Seat and back down to where you began.
The easiest route is the path that hugs the side of the Salisbury Crags because it has the least incline, but it’s also the one most often closed off if there’s been recent inclement weather or mudslides. You still get nice views of the city, but without as much huffing and heaving uphill. You can also walk along the top of the crag to follow the same route at a higher elevation. But be aware that there isn’t so much an official path here so you’ll need to watch your step and be aware of surprise puddles and uneven ground.
Arthur’s Seat is more than a peak
To get to the top of Arthur’s Seat, you have two (mostly) options: the direct route from Holyrood/Parliament or the steep path on the other side that passes Crow Hill. On either route, there will be a bit of a scramble to reach the highest point at the top. The path from Holyrood is a smoother incline that passes some quaint ruins and protects you from the wind for a nice stretch. This is also the path with the most people, so this could either mean a bit of overcrowding or some extra protection to know you won’t be going alone. The other side however, involves quite a few steps and a little more determination to make it to the top.
All of these paths will give you some beautiful views, a good deal of fresh air, and a taste of local tradition. As long as you bring some water and prepare for the strong winds at the top, you’re bound to have a wonderful experience climbing Arthur’s Seat.
Calton Hill
Calton Hill makes the third high point that make up Edinburgh, giving you great views of both Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle – and of course everything in between. Established in 1724, this site was one of Britain’s first public parks and continues to be a hot spot of public enjoyment today.
In addition to the stunning views from sea to city, there are several monuments and an observatory that call Calton Hill home. Many welcome you to climb up their stairs or simply jump onto to get better views and a bit of adventure in your day. There are signposts all around the hill explaining the different monuments and the history of the hill and its role in Edinburgh’s past.
It’s a popular spot for families and youths to come up and enjoy a picnic (or some drinks) so bring your lunch with you to take advantage too! Make sure to bring a warm coat because the winds can get strong at the top of the hill. Calton Hill is also the end of the torchlight procession that winds its way through the city during Hogmanay every year. You might see some metal structures set to be lit on fire if you come around that time.
There are several ways up and around the hill and I recommend letting yourself get lost and wind your way around the monuments and 360 views of the city. Just note – some paths up are steeper than others!
Where will you go when you visit Edinburgh? Let me know what you’re most exciting to see in the comments below and check out my Scotland Travel Guide for more Scotland travel tips.
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