If you want to experience all that the South Island has to offer, road tripping is absolutely the way to go. You’re in complete control of your schedule and able to get to and stop at those harder to reach gems off the highways. These are my top 5 favorite drives in New Zealand’s South Island for your next kiwi roadtrip.
New Zealand roads can be scary for a first-timer, especially if you’re used to driving on the other side of the road. But getting over that fear is so worth it! These drives aren’t free of those classic kiwi hairpin turns and steep drop offs, but what they do have makes up for it all.
One note that I never drove to Milford Sound myself, only took tour buses, so there’s a good chance that would be on this list if I did. I wouldn’t recommend a driver new to driving in New Zealand pick Milford Sound as a first destination, though.
5. Haast Pass
Between Queenstown and Haast (the southern most point of the accessible West Coast) lies the Haast Pass. This pass gets you through the southern end of the Southern Alps and into the western coast. This pass is prone to landslides during storm season which can often cut off any connection between the southern cities and the west coast. Make sure you’re checking traffic notices before you commit to any long drives.
This drive takes you past not one, but two stunning valley lakes that are popular summer swimming destinations. There are a few bike tracks along the lake shores, some camping spots, and, of course, plenty of turn offs for drivers to safely stop and get their fill.
Haast Pass is also filled with stops for easy access to a variety of stunning waterfalls, viewpoints, and river views. The Blue Pools are one of the most famous, though the main suspension bridge leading hikers to the pools is now out of commission. My go-to stops are Fantail Falls and Thunder Creek Falls. Both provide a nice spot to stretch your legs by the riverside and marvel at some beautiful waterfalls.
4. Catlins
Along the southeast edge of the South Island sits the Catlins. The highway separates the younger and older parts of this Jurassic forest. The landscape on the coastal side is younger, only beginning to vegetate and grow after the water line receded. The inland forest comes from before New Zealand broke off from Gondwanaland, making it around 180 million years old.
The best way to see the difference in the age divide between these neighboring forests is to do two of my top recommendations for this area: Cathedral Caves and McLean Falls track.
The Cathedral Caves car park and track is only open a few hours a day because access is dependent on tide times. Open hours are posted on the gate and website, so check before you go. There is a parking attendant collecting payment and coordinating open parking spots to help ease the worst of the crush. Unless you’re there the moment they open the gates, expect some wait time to get in. The caves open right up to the beach and ocean which have created these fascinating and beautiful cave systems. Even during low tide though, watch out! Sneak waves can still rush up and soak any unsuspecting cave visitors.
The McLean Falls Track takes you through some of the oldest parts of the forest and you can feel it. I felt transported to the Jurassic period, surrounded by ferns, moss, and streams that have been standing there for longer than I can imagine. The falls themselves were beautiful and bigger than I expected and I took several minutes to just sit and appreciate it before heading back. Be aware that certain parts of this track are slippery and rocky, so bring sturdy shoes.
3. West Coast
Who doesn’t love the West Coast? This is where rainforest gives way to alpine glaciers and snowy mountain peaks. Despite the name, there’s not a lot of coastline to see along the drive as the highway mostly hugs the foothills of the Southern Alps slightly more inland.
My first stop on this drive is Ship Creek. In addition to a nice watchtower, this stop has two main tracks for visitors to enjoy. You can read a bit about the history of this creek (and its mystery shipwreck) as well as the general history of shipwrecks and sea travel over the years. This is a great stop to stretch your legs, take in the beautiful rainforest, and check out the beach dunes and choppy waters of the Tasmanian Sea.
Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are obvious must-stop destinations along the West Coast. Both have namesake glaciers with both easy and difficult tracks for glacial viewpoints. Fox Glacier has an easy glacier viewpoint you can drive to if you’re only passing through. The Lake Matheson Walk and Fox Glacier Valley Walk are both relatively easy walks that give visitors some rainforest coverage and stunning views.
Franz Josef is the slightly bigger town with access to the slightly more difficult trails. The Franz Josef Glacier Walk is about 5 minutes from the parking lot with direct views of the glacier, but a pretty far ways out. Robert Point and Alex Knob also start here but are both more difficult hiking grades, though the views on a clear day make the effort worth it.
On the northern end of the drive is Hokitika Gorge. It’s off the main highway, but it’s an amazing loop walk around the gorge with several suspension bridges. The blue of the river really shines on sunny days!
2. Arthur’s Pass
Maybe surprising some, Arthur’s Pass didn’t quite make it to my number one spot though it’s right up there. While you can ride the TranzAlpine Rail and see some of the major views without a car, the hikes really do set this drive apart. In the spring, lupines line the river banks and roadsides, practically begging drivers to stop for a look.
Arthur’s Pass Village is nestled in the heart of the pass and is a required stop for all drivers. In addition to the cafe with warm drinks for visitors, this is where most of the main trailheads are. If you’re not looking for a full day hike or extreme trek, the Devils Punchbowl Waterfall and Bealey Valley Track can be combined into a roughly 3 hour hike. You can also drive to the trailhead for Bealey Valley instead of walking the connecting trail on the Arthur’s Pass Walking Track, but the parking is limited and the views on that section of the track are worth the walk.
Outside of the main village, the Bealey Spurs Track has some of the best views of Southern Alps’ peaks because you summit a peak yourself. This trail requires 5-6 hours of time though, so you may not be able to do all these hikes without an overnight stop.
You can stay in Arthur’s Pass Village itself at the Mountain House or go off the beaten track (literally) to the Forest Lodge in Castle Hill. I loved my stays at both of these accommodations, but they are wildly different. Make your decision depending on the car you have, upcoming weather, and which trails you want to do.
Honorable Mention: Kaikoura Coast
The Kaikoura coastline is absolutely stunning and the highway weaves along the coast, hugging a narrow gap between a cliff and the sea. The reason this drive is an honorable mention and not on my top 5 simply because the length of the actual coastline drive is quite short.
If you’re stopping in Kaikoura overnight or just passing through, make sure to add the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway to your trip! It starts off with a steep but brief climb up to the top of the cliff, but then you get to enjoy the relatively easy tramp overlooking the beach and ocean below. I started on the top path over the cliff, then went back down to the coastline at Whalers Bay. There, my friends and I sat for a while watching the antics of the local sea lion colony (at a safe and respectful distance!). We then took the path at the base of the cliff along the coastline back to the trailhead.
Other than stopping in Kaikoura itself, the major draw of this drive is Ohau Point Lookout. This pull off looks unassuming from the road, other than the fact that it has a decent parking lot. But it’s easy to see why it draws a crowd once you look over the rail. A sea lion colony lives in the rock pools under the lookout as the geography makes it the perfect, safe place for young pups to learn how to swim and play. Ohau Point is only a 20 minute drive north of Kaikoura, so don’t miss out!
Dishonorable Mention: Highway 1’s Eyesore
Before we get to my favorite drive in the South Island, let’s take a moment to talk about a dishonorable mention. My absolute least favorite drive in all of New Zealand’s South Island: the State Highway 1 between Christchurch and Timaru.
Not only does this stretch of highway have the most boring views (flat farmland), annoyingly high levels of wind, and feels almost entirely straight, this drive is also always absolutely jam packed with other cars, trucks, and tractors. It’s a main road that connects Canterbury’s farmland to Christchurch and the north to the south of the island. It’s entirely function over form, which I can’t entirely fault them for. I’m not here to talk about the most functional roads in the South Island though, am I?
There is nothing good about this drive!
Okay, it does have a decent number of passing lanes (see: the aforementioned absolute metric ton of other drivers and traffic). But other than that, nothing!
If you’re new to driving in New Zealand, this might feel like a nice entry onto the scene because it’s an easy drive and lets you really get to practice the passing protocols on the road. But if you’ve already got that down? You better queue up a fantastic playlist or audiobook to get through this drive!
1. Punakaiki
My number one! This drive is the stretch of highway between Greymouth and Westport, often passed over for the marginally shorter inland route. Before taking this drive up the northeastern coast, my only point of reference was the Pancake Rocks and Blowhole Track. This is definitely a must-visit spot, but this takes up less than an hour of your journey.
Take your time walking the loop track around the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. The more you watch the water, the more patterns you see. The formation of the rocks and arches come alive before you as you watch the same natural forces moving against each other as they have for thousands of years. There’s a restaurant and visitor center across the road, making it a perfect pit stop for this drive.
But what really stood out to me and make this my number one? The rest of the drive. The ferns and natural landscape shine with every possible shade of green there is between orange and blue (this may not make sense now, but it will when you see it). You’re right along the coast for most of the drive, buffeted by stunning beaches and open water on one side and an impenetrable rainforest of ferns on the other. I wanted to stop at every turn off and just sit there, soaking in the beauty. And there were plenty of turn offs for a picnic or just a sit to soak it all in!
There’s way more tracks here than I initially realized as well. The parking areas are pretty small but there’s not a lot of traffic to fight over it outside of peak seasons. This just means I have to go back and really take my time on my favorite drive in New Zealand’s South Island.
Rev Your Engines
I hope this post has got you excited to do some driving on New Zealand’s South Island! I drove about 25000km during my year in New Zealand and I am so fortunate most of their roads overlook Aotearoa’s natural beauty. If you’re looking to buy a car instead of rent next time you’re here, make sure to check out my breakdown of owning a car in New Zealand before you commit.
Which of these drives do you want to do first? Let me know in the comments below!
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