Other than the United States, France is the country I’ve spent the most time in after living here twice and traveling through countless times. Ironically, I’ve only lived in the northern part of France but the south of France holds my favorite parts of this country. If you want to see a comically exaggerated example of the north/south divide, watch Bienvenue Chez Les Ch’tis. If you speak French, you’ll even get a taste of the linguistic differences between the regions.
That being said, France is more than black and white striped shirts, wine, baguettes, cheese, and escargot. Each region of France holds its own culture, customs, and personality to make exploring this country all the more exciting. If you have the time, get out of Paris and discover the real France outside of the Boulevard Périphérique.
Fast France Facts
- France is part of the European Union and uses the Euro as currency. Strasbourg is home to the Council of Europe, the European Court of Human Rights, and the European Parliament of the European Union.
- French is the official language of France, though certain regions carry their own languages or dialects to this day.
- The Pays Basque region in south west France still incorporates the Basque language – including operating news stations in Basque.
- The Picardy region in the north east has the Picard dialect, or ch’ti (which can be heard in the movie reference above).
- The Alsatian dialect still lingers in the Alsace region, despite being briefly banned by the French government after WWII because of its Germanic ties.
- L’Académie Française dictates what are correct and incorrect words, spelling, and grammar in the French language. They’re still making changes and decisions to this day – with some mixed reactions from the people.
Food in France
Boulangerie and Patisserie
French boulangeries and patisseries are known world-wide for their pastries and they have the right to be. Typically cheap, delicious, and abundant, the treats you can find at your neighborhood boulangerie and patisserie are certain to leave a positive taste in your mouth after your visit. To make the most of your experience, make sure to greet the workers with a “Bonjour!” upon entering the store. Failure to do so will immediately mark you as a tourist and put you in their bad graces. I’ve seen it happen too many times to count. Even if that’s the only French you utter while there, that small greeting will go a long way for the service you receive.
To the outsider, boulangeries and patisseries may appear to be the same thing under different names (please don’t say this to the French). While you may find a few similar items in both, there is a distinct difference between what they offer. Boulangeries are bakeries (breads, croissants, and other everyday items) while patisseries are pastry shops (eclairs, tarts, and specialty pastry items). Both are definitely must-dos in France. But don’t walk into a patisserie asking for a baguette because you will be very disappointed.
What to Buy and Try
Unsure what to try at your local boulangerie? There’s always the classic baguette – however you’ll notice that there’s different kinds of baguette to choose from! There’s the baguette traditionnelle, the baguette de campagne, a baguette pas trop cuite (not too baked) or bien cuite (well baked). For the less hungry, there’s the demi-baguette for the full flavor at half the size. The best way to know your favorite is to try them all, in my opinion. You’ll also sound less like a tourist by specifying your order and showing that you know a little bit more about the diversity of France’s most well-known creation. To seal the deal? Tear off and eat the le croûton (end of the baguette) straight from the bag after leaving the boulangerie.
As for pastries, the pain au chocolat, croissant, and pain aux raisins are probably the most well-known options that you’ll find in a boulangerie. My personal favorite is the pain aux raisins and I will not be convinced otherwise. All of these are delicious choices and often boulangeries add their own flare to the treat. I once had a pistachio pain aux raisins that I still think about to this day. I cannot recommend the point and pick method enough in boulangeries and patisseries. Try a bit of everything, even what you can’t read the labels for.
At a patisserie, you’ll find eclairs, tartes, and an array of intricate pastries that look too pretty to eat. More so than boulangeries, each patisserie has their own specialities which can make it harder to have a universal experience across patisseries. This is just another reason to visit as many as possible to see how many varieties and options are out there.
Restaurants
France has gained a reputation of poor customer service from visitors who are used to a high level of attentive service (ahem americans). To be fair, I have several first-hand stories of being essentially abandoned in a restaurant by the wait staff for a few hours, desperate to pay and leave. With a little bit of confidence though, this doesn’t have to be you!
Wait staff won’t visit your table and ask if you’re ready or need anything – you need to flag them down. Most often, waiters come on their own to collect your order, but anything after that requires you to initiate. Unlike in the US, there’s no pressure to push as many guests through as quickly as possible. So no one is going to be breathing down your neck waiting to clear your table and get more customers in your place. This is wonderful if you’re out eating and drinking with friends, enjoying catching up and talking. If you’re in a rush, it can be stressful to signal to your waiter for the check when you want to leave. My advice? Always schedule extra time into your meals and prepare to laugh things off as things happen out of your control.
Thirsty but don’t want to pay for a water bottle in a restaurant? Ask the wait staff for une carafe d’eau to get the free tap water instead of charged for a bottle. Some restaurants even offer une carafe d’eau gazeuse – sparkling water in a carafe. Typically though, sparkling water comes in a bottle and will be charged.
Tipping
Like most of Europe, tipping in France isn’t compulsory. For the most part, guests will either leave the change to the nearest euro for the server or toss one or two euros onto the table for particularly good service. It also makes it easier to leave when you’re not waiting around for your server to take your money and bring back change!
When to Visit France
Winter
For the lover of Christmas markets, this is your season. Most markets close either before New Years or just after though so peak market season is in December. The French Alps also have a lot of skiing options if that’s in your interests. Grenoble and Annecy, nestled close to the Swiss border in the south, will be calling your name for idyllic winter mountains and classic French buildings.
Spring
Despite living here for almost 2 years collectively, I’ve only been in France during spring once. For a total of one week. Despite that, I still will recommend this as one of the best seasons to visit. The flowers begin to bloom which makes the iconic French gardens shine their brightest. The winter has started to thaw but true summer hasn’t kicked in with its heat and deluge of tourists. Outdoor cafe seating begins to feel accessible again and makes it easier to experience that quintessential French feeling.
Summer
If you’re near the beach or a lake, travel away. But there’s a reason almost every resident of Paris leaves the city when summer hits. Especially in recent years, France has not avoided the global warming trend and can suffer from some oppressive heat and humidity. Fortunately, France does boast some beautiful beaches to cool off from the heat. But they’ll likely be packed with tourists from around the world and from the rest of France.
Most of France takes off from work for the month of August for les vacances. So if you want to get anything bureaucratic accomplished – think bank accounts, visa applications, anything requiring an appointment and processing – you will have to wait a whole month for the staff to return and process the backlog of requests.
On a more positive note, the lavender fields bloom between mid-June and mid-August, depending on the region. These dates aren’t set though because it depends on the climate that year and which region you’re looking to visit.
Fall
Another sweet spot between winter and summer, France embraces the autumnal colors as the leaves change. Beaujolais is in early November which celebrates the opening of the first Beaujolais of the season – a specific kind of red wine – and officially kicks off the holiday season. The French population returns from their summer vacations and businesses once again operate with somewhat regular frequency.
Transportation Around France
Trains
France gives its visitors and residents a lot of options in terms of transportation around the country. The train system is well connected, but you’ll need to pay attention to make sure you’re booking the right one. SNCF (Société nationale des chemins de fer français) is the national state-owned railway company that operates and controls the trains in France. Spend enough time in train stations and the SNCF jingle will forever live rent free in your mind. It still comes to me in my dreams sometimes. SNCF is the umbrella train operator and then from there you see which of their services you’ll need.
High Speed, Big Cities
The TGV (trains à grande vitesse) are the high-speed trains that quickly connect passengers to major cities (and some smaller ones) around the country. Typically, TGV have assigned seats and have spaces at the end of each car to store luggage. They’re also often double-decker cars with tight stairs so keep that in mind when choosing seats.
OUIGO is the low-cost TGV branch that offers the same journeys at a lower cost, but typically you make up for that cost in comfort. The OUIGO system used to be low-cost state-operated buses until a few years ago. Now it could mean sharing a 1.5 person-sized bench seat between two people in the hallway between the bathroom and stairs. This may be spoken from personal experience.
Or Slow Regional Charm
If you’re visiting smaller cities outside of the TGV connected hotspots, you’ll use a TER (transport express régional) train. As the name implies, each local region operates these train systems that connect smaller towns to each other and larger connection points. They’re slower and make more stops, but also provide some beautiful views of the scenery and less traveled areas of France. Commuters often use the TER so watch out for busy times to avoid being overcrowded. These often don’t have assigned seats or dedicated luggage storage space. They are also much less expensive than the TGV (to no one’s surprise).
Validez, Validez, Validez
In a typical train journey around France, I imagine most people will find themself on both of these trains at one point or another. Both provide different services and have their own place in your travels. But no matter which train you take, remember…
validez votre billet.
When using the printer train tickets in France, make sure you validate your train ticket at the designated machines before getting on the train. They’re typically small and not in the most convenient or obvious of places. So keep an eye out, watch other passengers, and don’t be afraid to ask for help. If you fail to validate your ticket, even if you’re on the correct train you paid for, you may incur a fine.
Buses
Like all of Europe, France is connected around the country and to its neighbors through low-cost bus systems. Nowadays, there are two main bus companies connecting travelers in France: FlixBus and Blablacar Bus. Blablacar began as a car-sharing service to connect drivers with extra seats and travelers willing to pay for them. They’ve now expanded into the bus sphere with similar rates to FlixBus. I can’t share any personal experience on this service, but if you have, please share any you have in the comments down below!
I have used FlixBus extensively around Europe and beyond and am always pleasantly surprised by how smooth their journeys tend to go. They’re a huge improvement from Megabus (who have significantly downsized their operating areas in recent years, no love lost here) and the bright green of their buses make them easy to spot. I have had spotty enforcement of paid seat placements which seems to be a driver’s decision (I’m not bitter). Overall, I’m a huge fan of FlixBus.
Planes
There’s a lot of regional airports around France so you could fly to various destinations around the country. Unless you’re on a particularly tight schedule though, I would steer away from planes and stick with the ground options. Not only is it better for the environment, but they’re typically less stressful and provide amazing views of the countryside. And you don’t have to deal with luggage weight limits or liquid restrictions!
France’s Popular Destinations
I began editing this post and realized…I completely left out Paris. You may be familiar with Paris? Well it just slipped my mind. I will write a whole Paris City Guide soon to finally put those 6 months living in Paris to good use. But for now, I’ll pretend it was intentional to encourage more travelers to travel beyond the City of Lights.
If you don’t have time to plan for extensive travels and tours in France, let Get Your Guide help you! From short tours and activities, to day trips, to multi-day excursions, Get Your Guide can help you make the most of the time that you have to explore France.
Normandy
Somewhere you probably have heard of is the ever iconic Mont St Michel. Built on an island off the shore, this isolated community is only accessible during low-tide. In addition to the town itself, with its restaurants, small hotels, and gift shops, the crowning piece of this visit is the cathedral that sits at the peak. A gold statue of St Michael slaying the dragon sits on the highest point, looking down over the island for centuries. Most visitors only stay for the day, which can make daytime on Mont St Michel quite crowded. If you want a unique and intimate experience, stay at one of the hotels or bed and breakfasts and explore after high tide and the tourists are locked out for the night.
A lesser known gem of the region is Bayeaux. This is a good town to stay in when visiting Mont St Michel and provides its own significance to the telling of history. The Bayeaux tapestry was most likely commissioned in the 11th century and illustrates the conquest of William the Conqueror in England in 1066. Whether you’re a history buff or not, this piece of history provides a unique and rare glimpse into contemporary storytelling and how time and influence can change what one believed were objective facts.
As an American, I have to be honest and say I’m not sure how big of a draw Omaha Beach and the other D-Day beaches are to non-American tourists. The American cemetery includes a museum about the invasion and subsequent aftermath and relies heavily on sharing first-hand accounts. History aside, the beaches themselves are beautiful and a great spot for some sunbathing in the summer.
Alsace
One of the most contested regions in Europe, Alsace has shuffled between German and French governance for hundreds of years and was a major player in the conflicts of World War II. Nowadays, Alsace is under French rule, but the history of this region cannot be fully erased from the cities or the people.
After World War II, France tried to erase any German traces by banning German and Alsatian language among other things. After a resurgence in the late 1900s seeking to elevate local dialects again, those traces of history are more prominent in Alsace than they were a few decades ago. You can feel the history in the streets, the buildings, and the traditions in a way that truly makes it feel like a separate place entirely.
The capital of the region (and of the European Union) is Strasbourg – which also boasts one of the best Christmas market destinations in Western Europe. Strasbourg, and its smaller but no less captivating neighbor Colmar, embodies the blend of French and German influence this region is known for. Settled on roaming waterways, visitors can walk along the rivers while admiring the well-maintained architecture and streets.
Above all, in my personal opinion, Alsace has some of the best wine in France. Don’t come for me, the rest of France. I said what I said.
Giverny
Sitting just north of Paris, the small town of Giverny has attracted thousands of visitors every year for one simple reason: the gardens of one Claude Monet. Without a car, it can be really difficult to make it here so it’s easily left off itineraries without enough planning. During the peak season, I cannot stress enough how important it is to book your tickets in advance. The gardens have capacity limits and can easily sell out. They also get very crowded so make sure you arrive early and prepare to spend the whole day so you can wait out surges and hit what you want when there’s a lull.
I ended up going there twice with my parents. The first time, we hadn’t booked tickets in advance and ended up leaving almost immediately because the tickets were sold out for the first part of the day and it was overly crowded. On our second attempt, we pre-booked our tickets. It went so smoothly it felt like we had entered an entirely different place.
Provence
I need to write a whole post about Provence, my favorite region of France (again, don’t come for me, the rest of France). Provence is an iconic Mediterranean destination in southern France that stretches along the coast from east of the Rhone river to the Italian border.
The borders of what is “Provence” have changed over time and fights over where the “real” Provence is continue to this day. In my opinion, and in many others, when you picture Provence, you’re most likely picturing the western districts from the Rhone to Luberon.
From Roman ruins, lavender fields, and the seats of kings and popes to an afternoon spritz, fresh olive oil, and soaps galore, Provence offers something for everyone. My must-visits are Avignon and the nearby Pont du Gard, Nime, Orange, and Aix en Provence. Aix en Provence has a deep history with writers and artists from all over Europe. Marseille and Nice will be your easiest airports to access and there are plenty of regional trains coming from Lyon and the surrounding area. You can even pop over to its neighbor Montpellier for a day!
No matter when you go, brace for the mistral! These winds are strongest in spring and winter, but can blow through anytime during the year. While this wind keeps the air in the Rhone valley fresh, it can also reach very high speeds – sometimes I thought I would be blown away!
Pays Basque
The Pays Basque was my first ever stop in Europe almost 15 years ago, if you can believe it. Tucked on the Atlantic coast bordering Spain, the Basque region holds a lot of mysteries and a strong sense of culture. Euskara, the Basque language, is the oldest in western Europe – and the only non-Indo-European language. The actual region includes parts of what is now Spain and France, because Basque existed before Spain and France. So while we’re talking specifically about France here, Basque goes beyond those modern borders. Many Basques today are still fighting for independence from France and Spain and see themselves solely as Basque.
This cultural separation makes this area a unique place to visit as you can see where the cultures collide. You can still find your classic French delights here, but also traditional Basque foods like the gateau basque you can’t find elsewhere. There are also several Basque traditions and festivals to either plan for or plan around. The fêtes de Bayonne is by far the biggest and attracts over a million people every year.
The major cities in this area are Biarritz and Bayonne. They’re about 20 minutes apart so it’s easy to go between them. Biarritz gives you easy access to the beach and the nearest airport. You can also hop over to nearby San Sebastian to experience a bit of the Spanish side of the Pays Basque.
There’s honestly so much more I could write about France. I’m sure I’ll cover them all over time, so stay tuned! Where are you visiting next in France? What favorite spots of yours did I miss? Let me know in the comments below!
Leave a reply