Spain Part 8: Portomarín to Eirexe

Wednesday, March 12, 2014: Our second day of hiking was to see us conquer somewhere around twenty-nine kilometers, with our end destination being Palas de Rei. To fuel up for the hours of walking to come, we began the day with our croissants and café in a restaurant located on the Camino within Portomarín.

And yes, we took another selfie (courtesy of Christine) to celebrate our second breakfast together.

This is unfortunately the only photo I have from that day!

At one point that morning we learned that the hostel in Palas de Rei was still closed for the offseason (one of the problems of doing the pilgrimage in March). With this in mind, we had to recalibrate and pick a new plan for day two.

Over lunch we decided that it would be best for us to hike to Eirexe instead. It’s on the way to Palas, and thanks to Adriana who called ahead, we were able to confirm that their pilgrim’s hostel was open.

The hike to Eirexe turned out to be an easy seventeen kilometers that took us through small, medieval-looking towns along the way, like Gonzar, Castromaior, and Ligonde. Once we arrived in Eirexe, we checked into the hostel and soon realized that we had the entire place to ourselves. Five women in a dorm meant for twenty or thirty people. It was glorious. But again, no doors on the shower stalls. The Spanish are apparently a very confident group of people.

Showered and freshly-clothed, we made our way across the street to the local bar/restaurant, where we were the only patrons sitting down for dinner. It felt like we were the only pilgrims in the entire town. Feeling regal, we sat down on the patio and ordered a pilgrim’s meal, complete with beer and wine. We sat there until the sun went down, trading stories about each other’s home life, relationships, and the like. It was an easy day, but it allowed us to become even closer as a group.

We called it an early night so we can thus have an early morning (I also think we wanted to relish in the fact that we had the whole dorm to play in). The next day would see us ending in Melide, the city known for its pulpo, so we needed a solid night’s rest to build up our stamina for the hike and our appetite for Melide’s delicacy.


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